What’s my favorite part of Rio de Janeiro? Not at all easy to say, because there are so many cool parts of this city, appealing in their different ways. But (literally) high on the list, way above the famous beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema, on Santa Teresa hill close to the downtown, Centro, is an utterly charming neighborhood rather unlike any other in town, with winding cobblestone streets, a vintage tram, centuries-old architecture, and a small-town feel – think Rio’s answer to Montmartre. Santa Teresa also happens to be pretty lively these days, popular not just with tourists but even more so with hip locals.

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