Glendalough: Ireland's Valley of the Two Lakes

[Anthony Toole]

Toward the end of the 6th century CE, a small group of Irish monks led by Saint Kevin, who had previously lived there as a hermit, founded the Christian monastery at Glendalough, in what is now County Wicklow. The settlement grew and thrived, despite Viking raids, for the next six centuries, becoming eventually absorbed into the Dublin diocese. Apart from St Kevin, the most influential Abbot of Glendalough was St Lorcan (Laurence) O’ Toole (1118 - 1180), who became Archbishop of Dublin.

Monastic Round Tower and Cathedral

As one approaches Glendalough, the most obvious landmark is the 30-metre-tall Round Tower, which rises high over the surrounding trees. Such towers were a common feature of early Irish monastic sites. They functioned as bell towers, store houses and as refuges during times of attack. Glendalough’s tower, built in the 10th century, stands in the cemetery, which still serves the local community. The entrance door is 3.5 metres above the ground.

The largest ruin in the cemetery is that of the cathedral. Though now minus its roof, it is clear that it must once have been an imposing building. During its lifetime, it underwent various stages of expansion, the latest being in the early 13th century. Nearby is the much more compact Priests’ House, which is thought to have once housed relics of St Kevin. During the 18th and 19th centuries, it was used as the final resting place of deceased priests.

St. Kevin’s and St. Kieran’s Churches

To the south of the main complex is St. Kevin’s Church, a roofed structure with a small, round bell tower, which gave the church its alternative name of St. Kevin’s Kitchen. Adjacent to this is the ruin of the tiny St. Kieran’s Church, which was dedicated to the founder of the equally important monastic community of Clonmacnoise. Around the periphery of Glendalough are St. Saviour‘s, Trinity and Our Lady‘s churches.

Temple-na-Skellig and St. Kevin’s Bed

The main monastic settlement lies to the east of the Lower Lake. A short drive past this brings one to a car park beside the larger Upper Lake. A broad track leads along the northern shore, from which can be seen, across the water, the ruins of Temple-na-Skellig, a tiny church perched on a rare piece of level ground beneath the precipitous slopes that rise from the southern shore. This can be reached on foot, but not easily, and is best approached by boat.

On the adjacent crag is the small cave known as St. Kevin’s Bed, which can only be entered by means of an exposed rocky scramble, eight metres above the lake. It is believed to have been used as a place of retreat by Saint Kevin and St. Lorcan O’ Toole.

Wicklow Mountains Education Centre

Continuing along the track, one passes the Wicklow Mountains Education Centre, which is open daily throughout the summer and at weekends for the rest of the year. It contains impressive displays about the wildlife and geology of the area, as well as collections of bones, rocks, fungi and many other samples from the outdoors. It caters mainly for school groups but also runs free activities and guided walks for adults.

At the western end of the Upper Lake are the remains of the lead mining industry that once flourished here, and above these hangs the huge crag that is one of Ireland’s most important rock climbing venues.

The visitor centre, which stands next to the monastery, offers displays and video shows that describe the history of Glendalough, construction of the Round Tower, techniques used in ink-making for writing the illuminated Celtic manuscripts, trade, transport, farming and the lives of the Glendalough saints.