Krakow: City of Heart and Soul

[Nicholas Kontis]

Yes, I admit it, I’m biased- I have Polish family living in this stunning city- but I still maintain that it is one of the finest cities in Europe, and worth a few days of anyones time.KrakowI first saw the Rynek Glowny on a fresh Spring morning, just before Easter- a very special time in Catholic Poland. Stalls riotous with vibrant flowers, and, more sedately, candle soaps, corn plaits and crosses in honour of the season. Central to Stare Miasto, the Old Town, and dating from 1257, this is Europes largest medieval Market Square. The eye is drawn immediately to Sukiennice, the Cloth Hall. The richest cloth merchants once worked here, their heraldry still emblazoned on the walls. Far more likely ladies that you will be gaping at the wealth of stalls, laden with amber jewellery and craftwork. You will need plenty of time for your retail therapy fix, even if you’re just looking.Back in daylight, time to relax and admire the handsome horse drawn carriages trotting by. The Rynek is surrounded by cafes and restaurants for just this purpose. Restauracja Szara is as historically elegant as any, and puts you in good position to await the hourly appearance of the trumpeter in the tall tower of the Mariacki Church. The bugler ends mid-phrase, tribute to the lone watchman killed by an arrow as he warned the city of the approach of the Tatar Army in 1241. It never ceases to delight the crowds. www.szara.pltel [phone]

Have you timed it right?

Dominating the Northeast corner of the Market Square stands Kosciol Mariacki, St Mary’s Church. I was totally unprepared for the stunning burst of colour inside, and looking up, the deep blue ceiling painted with stars. If you have timed it right, you will have purchased a ticket for 6PLN from the small office in Pl. Mariacki, to the right hand side of the church. This entitles you to be seated and witness the opening, at 12pm daily, of the Veit Stoss altar.
You will be steered away from the altar and directed to the ticket office, which only opens a short while before each performance, if you try to steal an illicit peak. The altar is a truly beautiful creation of gilded carving. Don’t worry if your timing isn’t perfect. You can still view the closed altar and the lovely church interior for free at other times.
Please do be respectful when a mass is taking place- the Polish take their religion very seriously. It doesn’t suit everyone. I always hate the sight of a beggar on the steps despite that sumptuous display inside.

Food anyone? 
Polish food is wonderful- delicious soups, pierogi (dumplings with savoury or sweet fillings), fabulous pork in many styles, nalesniki (pancakes with creamy cheese or, my favourite, sour cherries-wisnia-and cream). The range of snacks or full meals is huge.

An easy way to start is at Chimera. Leave the Rynek by the opposite corner to the Mariacki Church, onto Sw. Anny. A couple of buildings along at no.3, Chimera is a self service restaurant with a charismatic courtyard. Stand back and take a good look before diving in to the plentiful array of salads and hot savouries. It’s an excellent choice for veggies and always busy, due to location and excellent prices (the student quarter is nearby). The smart restaurant is also open from 12pm till late for traditional fayre. www.chimera.com.pl   tel [phone]

The Jagiellonian University where Copernicus studied in the 16th century is nearby, just off Sw. Anny. Enter by the courtyard of the Collegium Magus. The booking office for the guided tours alone filled me with admiration.

Back in the Rynek, don’t miss tiny St Adalberts church, the oldest building in the square and serenely peaceful inside.

Restaurant Wierzrynek, at 15 Rynek Glowny, is Krakow’s most famous restaurant and staggeringly beautiful inside. It has played host to Charles de Gaulle, Steven Spielberg and Yehudi Menuhin- even me, and my family too. If you can’t afford the restaurant, coffee and cake in the cafe will get you inside, but realistically Polish prices are never high in comparison with the rest of Europe. www.wierzrynek.pl  tel [phone]

The Tourist Information Centre lies within the Ratusz, the Town Hall- the tall slim tower all that remains from the original. The TI is at ground level so you don’t have to climb all those steps to the top, but will be rewarded with a fine view if you do. An excellent street map is freely available, with the restaurants and best sights clearly marked.

A White Rabbit moment- so much to do, so little time!

Strolling next, on Florianska, the architecture powerful, old and new mingling with surprising ease. State of the art shopping hides behind grand old facades. Picturesque Florianska Gate with its art market lies ahead, the only survivor of seven such gates. The whole of the Old Town is encircled by the Planty, a green leafy space where massive fortifications and a moat once protected the city. You might need a refreshing drink or a drool at the cakes in Jama Michalika, at 45 Florianska. The menu is endless and the cavernous insides host folklore shows some afternoons. www.jamamichalika.pl

Follow the flow of people south from the Rynek down Grodzka, where more beautiful buildings, churches, and restaurants distract. Beckoning in the distance, the spires of Wawel Hill, home to Krakows mighty castle and cathedral.

Wawel Castle and Cathedral

The spiritual and patriotic heart of Poland, Wawel was her seat of kings for 500 years. You need a full day to do it justice, and tickets should be booked ahead, but truly it draws you in- I have never seen a more spellbinding castle. There’s even a fire-breathing dragon.

The cathedral is a wonder of altars, tombs and chapels topped by Zygmunts Bell Tower. It’s a bit of a scramble up to the bell- the largest in Poland and requiring 11 men to ring it on major holidays. The castle was the royal residence until 1609, when power transferred to Warsaw. The internal courtyard is immense, surrounded by 3 storey Italianate arcades. The Royal Chambers are furnished in Renaissance style and contain 136 Flemish tapestries from the 16th century. The tapestries are well-travelled due to Polands turbulent history, and were only finally returned from Canada in 1968.
Access to the Royal Chambers is free on Sundays. Book on www.wawel.krakow.pl

A novel way to view Wawel is from Balon Widokowy- a tethered balloon which rises high over the city from the riverbank. It makes a lovely sunset experience for 36PLN single or 80PLN family ticket, or you could simply sail by on a river cruise on the Vistula.

I’ve only just scratched the surface, and not even taken you to Kazimierz, the unmissable Jewish Quarter yet, so I fear another guide will be needed. If you go under your own steam, don’t miss the Old Jewish Cemetery or Temple Synagogue on Ul. Miodowa, and Ariel on Ul. Szeroka provides good food in a lively atmosphere.

Guided tours in the city are plentiful and cheap. Transport outside of the old town is easy and mostly by tram. My recommendation of a lovely hotel would be Hotel Polski, right by Florianska Gate, tel [phone] www.podorlem.com.pl, from 360PLN for a double, 15% discount for online booking.
Across the river, with lovely views of Wawel from its sun terrace, you could also try Hotel Poleski, tel [phone] www.hotelpoleski.pl , prices from 265PLN

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By Jonanna Bradley

Source: http://www.thelmandlouise.com/travel-guide/Krakow-city-heart-and-soul

 

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[Barbara Silkstone]

One of my favorite cities in Europe. I went seeking my roots, but found much more. I found the romance of my heritage.