Madrid’s Classic Fiestas of San Isidro

[Iberia Airlines]

by Cristóbal Ramírez

Parasols, lace dresses and suits, fancy fashionable hats, and a field filled with people - that’s how the great Francisco Goya portrayed the fiesta honoring Madrid’s patron saint in his painting San Isidro Meadow back in 1788. Times have changed enormously of course, but Spain’s capital still makes a big deal of this holiday every spring, harking back to the feel of a popular village festival rather than a big-city shindig.

If you happen to find yourself in Madrid in the next several days, the Fiestas de San Isidro 2012 starting tomorrow and running through Tuesday, May 15 are a fun, charming way to take the city's pulse, with activities for young and not-so-young alike, and a festive vibe that mixes the modern and the traditional – lots of folks dress in traditional costumes, and you’ll spot more than one hipster sporting a traditional cap (male) or carnation-crowned headscarf (female). Hit the fair in the park and sample callos and gallinejas, classic Madrid dishes made of tripe (if those are a bridge too far for you, there are plenty of other local goodies, too, such as the bacon fritters known as torreznos). 

On Friday the 11th, the fun kicks off downtown at 6pm with a parade featuring “giants” and “big-heads,” figures with enormous papier-mâché noggins, then at 8pm Madrid-born astronaut Pedro Duque will be the celebrity to make the traditional opening remarks from the balcony of the historic old city hall in Plaza de la Villa. This all makes for a great way to experience Habsburg-era Madrid, with its taverns, quaint lanes and landmarks like Lujanes Tower, Plaza de la Paja (Straw Square), and the grand building that now houses Spain’s foreign ministry.  At 9:30 the spotlight turns to the Plaza Mayor with a show mixing, again, the traditional (the folkloric-inspired works of 19th-century composer Antonio Alonso) and the mod (Toñy Salazar of the pop duo Azúcar Moreno). 

On Saturday the 12th head to Las Vistillas, the park alongside the Segovia Viaduct (not to be confused with the famous Roman viaduct in the city of Segovia), with great views of Madrid’s cathedral, La Almudena; here you can see enjoy performances of eclectic music (including an appearance by the band Alamedadosoulna) and a competition of couples dancing chotis  (considered the Madrid dance par excellence for well over a century). Later that day, the stage at Puerta del Ángel on the Manzanares River will host the alternative festival Planeta Madrid, with appearances by groups like Hola A Todo El Mundo (Hi, Everybody). On that same stage on Sunday it will be the turn of the youth rockfest Universimad, with artists including Xoel López and Nacho Vegas.

And throughout these five days and nights, you’ll be able to hang out amid the colorful crowd in San Isidro Park in Madrid Carabanchel neighborhood for more of that Goyesque atmosphere and performances from the likes of El Pescao, Soraya, and Robert Ramírez.  And finally don’t forget the bullfights at Las Ventas and the special stage shows at the Fernán Gómez Theater and a handful of music halls. 

And if you can't make it this year, there's always 2013!

For more details, check http://www.esmadrid.com/sanisidro/ (it’s in Spanish, so you may need to use a translation app). And as we madrileños say, ¡Buen San Isidro!

photo: Miguel Rodríguez


Adapted from the original Spanish, on the Iberia blog MeGustaVolar.com.