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Mole Poblano, Mexico's Saucy Splendor

If you’re a true fan of the complexities of Mexican cuisine (as in, beyond Taco Bell and “pass the Old El Paso”) I’m sure you’ve come across one of this country’s most sophisticated contributions to world cuisine, as well as its quintessential “special occasion” dish. There are a number of Mexican sauces referred to as moles (pronounced “MO-layss”), but the best known is mole poblano, a thick, rich, brown concoction that for my money is as tasty and complex as any fancy confection from the kitchens of Europe, Asia, or anywhere else in the world.

The word mole comes from the Nahuatl milli, but as best I can tell, mole poblano was most likely invented in colonial times in Puebla (according to a legend, by nuns trying to impress an archbishop who visited the city’s Santa Rosa Convent). Usually served over turkey or chicken, it’s based primarily on several kinds of chili peppers (poblano is a fairly mild red pepper from Puebla), garlic, onions, nuts, and most famously, a dash of unsweetened dark chocolate (there are also various other ingredients such as cinnamon, clove, oregano, raisins, and so forth – some of these vary according to the variety of mole and to who’s doing the cooking). The final product is hard to describe in words, but adjectives such as “savory,” “velvety,” and “just slightly zingy” come into my mind.

Puebla and Oaxaca states are widely considered the best places to get excellent mole poblano (other parts of Mexico have other sauces also referred to as moles), but there are chefs all over Mexico who do a fine job with it as well (these days, even some Mexican restaurants north of the border have been known to serve some pretty decent moles). So don’t pass up a chance to sample a magisterial dish that Mexicans associate with good times and special occasions, because I’m telling you, your taste buds will, too. And, by the way, if you’d like to try your own hand at whipping it up yourself, check out this recipe from the Mexico Tourist Board web site.