Port St Johns: Jewel of South Africa's 'Wild Coast'

[Pierre]

Port St Johns is not some designer location, but a third-world town which houses a fascinating medley of characters and blends extreme poverty with unsurpassed natural beauty and great outdoor options. Its rural setting has also made it a popular location for various film shoots, including "Shout at the Devil” and the more recent "Blood Diamond" starring Leonardo Di Caprio.

Port St Johns is located in the Eastern Cape roughly 900 km from Johannesburg and can be reached by Route N3 via Underberg and Kokstad. An alternative route, albeit 100km longer, is the N1 to Bloemfontein and then via Aliwal-North and Elliot. This route affords an opportunity to also visit the popular Aliwal Spa Holiday Resort .

Approximately midway between Durban and East London, the town has a population of roughly 3,000 inhabitants and is one of the largest towns on the Wild Coast, a 250-km stretch of unspoilt coastline between the Mtmvuna River in the North and the southern Kei River. The town is situated on the banks of the Umzimvubu (Mzimvubu) River, which literally means "home of the hippo" and has its source in the mountains of Lesotho.

The town consists of two distinct regions viz. First Beach and Second Beach, connected by a scenic 5km stretch of road. The CBD is located at First Beach and offers supermarkets, clothing shops, banks, a post office, Town Hall, museum and numerous street vendors. It also has a taxi rank from where taxis to Mthatha (previously known as Umtata and home to the Nelson Mandela National Museum) operate.

History:

At the time when Germany annexed the current Namibia and created German South West Africa, they also established themselves at St Lucia Bay and in the area which is still known as New Germany. The British government in the Cape were not happy and appointed a British Resident to Eastern Pondoland. The residency was set up at Fort Donald near Kokstad and on 15 September 1884 Port St Johns was officially declared part of the Cape Colony.

There are various theories as to the origin of its name, some believing it to be related to an imaginary image of St John on the left cliff beside the river, others stating that a Portuguese vessel had passed there on 24th June (St Johns Day) or that it was believed to be the site where the Sao Joao sank in 1552. Historians also believe that Port St Johns may have been the site of the second European landing when the Nossa Senhora de Belem was grounded at the site of the current Outspan Inn in 1635. Other famous shipwrecks along this treacherous coastline include the Grosvenor (1782), Waratah (1912) and even modern day casualties such as the Aster (1999) and the BBC China (2004).

Originally an area some 10km distant from the rivermouth had been cultivated to supply passing naval vessels with fresh produce. Port St Johns was established around 1880 and, although it had many natural advantages, the shallowing of the river caused it to cease functioning as a port since 1940. It nevertheless developed into a popular tourist destination, but after the region was incorporated into the independent Transkei in 1976 it started declining and has not yet fully recovered, although there is ongoing improvement in developing the region since its re-incorporation into South Africa in 1994.

Many South-African statesmen have their roots in the Transkei, including Nelson Mandela who is from the Thembu-tribe and a direct descendant of King Ngubengcuka. According to custom the Royal heir is selected from the "Right Hand House" and the "Left Hand House" from which Mr Mandela is descended traditionally served to council the rulers.

Geography:

The rugged Wild Coast features humid summers and mild winters and the Port St Johns region is particularly known for the quality of its (illicit) marijuana production, which is most often cultivated in inaccessible valleys or hidden between crops of maize. The Afromontane forests (found in less than 1% of South Africa) provides a natural habitat for diverse species of flora and fauna. The region has an almost sub-tropical climate with lush vegetation ranging from dune forests which give way to dense forests and, further inland, become grassland

Sandstone is predominantly found to the north of Port St Johns, whilst to the south there is the Karoo System. Precipitous cliffs and narrow gorges are a feature of the Egosa Fault which runs parallel to the coast at Port St Johns and has resulted in the formation of spectacular waterfalls such as the 146m-high Magwa Falls and the Waterfall Bluff where the Mkozi River plummets directly into the sea.

Activities and Places of Interest:

Hiking and bird watching: hike to the top of Eagle's Nest, the cliff which overlooks Port St Johns. There is abundant flora and it is the only place where the Streptocarpus ssp grows. You may also encounter a troop of rare Samango Monkeys and more than 250 bird species have been identified in the region, including the endangered Cape Parrot. Alternatively, visit the Silaka Nature Reserve and enjoy its secluded beach and tidal pools.

A visit to Umngazi River Bungalows which offers canoeing, water-skiing and rock, river and fly-fishing is recommended. There are also opportunities to hike in the indigenous forest or explore the mangrove swamps.

Nature: Fishing is abundant and one option is to take the rowboat ferry across the river to fish from Long Beach and Agate Terrace. Further north is Poenskop (meaning "bald head"), where you will encounter pure, isolated Africa and some good catches of Garrick & Cob.

Sardine Run: this annual event during May-July provides great opportunities for dolphin and whale watching, although the more common species can be seen all year round. The Sardine Run is unique to the region and occurs annually when millions of sardines which were spawned at the Agulhas Bank are borne northwards on a cold current and create a feeding frenzy.

Golf: the nine-hole course offers some spectacular scenery and the ClubHouse often serves as a venue for local functions and events.

The Gap & Blow Hole is best visited when the sea is rough and water is forced up to 20m into the air through the blowhole. Visitors are advised to be cautious – there have been instances of people being sucked-in, never to be seen again. To get there, take the mTumbane Township road (between town and 2nd beach) and walk down from the end of the road.

Visit the airfield on top of Mount Thesiger and enjoy the superb view from the end of its 1,2 km runway. There are also excellent bird watching opportunities at the two dams en-route.

Learn a bit about Pondo culture by visiting the Isinuka Springs where the foul-smelling, sulphurous mud and water is used for medicinal purposes.

Take a stroll to the Cape Hermes Lighthouse which celebrated its 100th birthday in 2004 and enjoy the view from there. Permission to see the interior can be obtained from the lighthouse-keeper.

Accommodation:

Port St Johns offers a wide variety of accommodation options ranging from camping facilities and backpackers such as the Jungle Monkey and Amopondo to upmarket guesthouses such as the Umzimvubu Retreat and iNtaba River Lodge.

Recommended alternatives include the Outspan Inn, which is located alongside the river, Cremorne Estate which offers log cabins on the other side of the river, and Sunlof which is located near the golf course and offers spectacular mountain and sea views.


Dining:

A varied selection of dining options are available, including the Wood'n'Spoon and Delicious Monster at Second Beach, a venue which specialises in vegetarian dishes. Due to its local availability, seafood is reasonably priced and a feature on most menus. Other recommended dining venues are the Fish Eagle, which is located directly at the river, and N.E.W.S on Main Street, directly adjacent to the Outspan Inn. Umzimvubu Retreat offers an extensive a-la-carte menu which features international and Thai cuisine.

Conclusion:

Port St Johns is an idyllic location for nature lovers and a comfortable base from which to enjoy various out of town options. Visit the Majola Tea Plantation about 12 km outside town and enjoy the spectacular scenery visit the Magwa Tea Plantation and view the highest waterfall in the Transkei, or encounter unique butterfly species during a stroll along the Ntafufu River. Signboards are available on the Lusikisiki road about 20 km outside Port St Johns.

Alternatively, explore the diverse bird and marine life of the Umgazana River, which is great for snorkelling and fishing. It is also home to the southernmost mangrove swamp in Africa where Black, Red and White mangroves can be found. Access is from the Mpande road off the R61 approximately 20 km from Port St Johns. Of particular interest also is the Mkambati Nature Reserve which offers stunning waterfalls, varied wildlife and unique flora such as the Mkambati Palm.