Tango and WiFi at Buenos Aires' Mansión Dandi Royal

[David Paul Appell]

by David Paul Appell

The renaissance of BA’s most iconic world export is still in full swing, and throughout Argentina‘s elegant capital you can experience tango in infinite ways: from milongas (dance halls) and dance academies to museums and tours, from traditional to jazz-and-electronica-infused and same-sex gay (in a sense bringing tango back to its roots, when it was common for dudes to dance together). Whether you’re fascinated with the form or are simply in the market for elegant yet moderately priced digs in the city’s oldest, quaintest neighborhood, Héctor Villalba’s Mansión Dandi Royal should fit the bill like a snug pair of strappy stilettos.

Located in San Telmo, famous for its cafés, cobblestone streets, antiques fair and shops, museum of modern art, and tango venues like El Viejo Almacén, the Dandi Royal is a handsome Art Nouveau manse from 1903, with 15 rooms on five floors, adorned with murals depicting the old days — including mucho tango, of course. Perks include a rooftop pool and jacuzzi, but the real kicker, so to speak, is the three adjoining ballrooms, where shows (open to non-guests, by the way) and daily tango lessons are held, either in groups or privately. Digs-plus-dance packages start at US$103 (€76/£69/CA$108) a night, or you can get just a room with all the mod cons plus breakfast from US$100 (in a slightly splurgy mood? The Corona Real Suite is pretty dandi at just $160). Just knock three times and whisper low that you and I were sent by Joe...