Welsh Cuisine: Dining Like the New Royal Couple

[Ed Wetschler]

Prince William, Future Princess Kate, and Food in Wales

 

What will Will and Kate eat in Wales? On the eve of a royal marriage, this is no idle question, for after getting hitched, the royal couple will live in a Welsh farmhouse on the isle of Angelsey – aka Ynys Mon – while he serves in the Royal Air Force. We envision romantic, candlelit meals à deux in an artfully rustic dining room – but what, exactly, will they be eating in this love nest? For that matter, what are travelers served in the hotels and restaurants? What is Welsh cuisine, anyway?

Let us begin, as they will, at breakfast: A traditional day at the farmhouse might start with laverbread, a seaweed paste that's spread on real bread or mixed with oatmeal and fried in bacon fat to form little cakes. Looking at Kate (it's hard not to), we get the sense that she does not eat a whole lot of food fried in bacon fat, but time will tell. Meanwhile, we picture William fueling up, but Kate having one soft-boiled egg and one slice of toast or a little yogurt smuggled in from France. As a certain minister's wife once said, “If you want to keep your Protestant figure, you must eat Protestant portions.”

But what about you, as a visitor to Wales? You can try laverbread and oatcakes at most hotels and restaurants, but rest assured that the hotels and restaurants also serve traditional oatmeal, eggs, bacon, sausages, coffee, tea, toast (top) – the works.

Welsh Rarebit, Caerphilly Cheese

There's a lot of livestock in Wales, and that means a lot of wonderful cheeses, from Caerphilly (right) to goat cheeses to local takes on Cheddar. We expect Kate to nosh on some organic cheese and a crisp, locally picked apple for lunch, or perhaps she'll have a little Welsh rarebit – essentially, a rich sauce of melted cheese, egg yolk, beer, and butter slathered on bread. Delicious, but don't expect to see that reassuring heart-healthy symbol on the menu.

 

For those of you who will not be lunching with the princess, we recommend traditional pubs, where you'll almost always find great cheese and Welsh rarebit (left). If you see Glamorgan sausages on the chalkboard, order them. These sausages are made primarily with cheese and leeks, the national emblem of Wales.

 

But wait, what of poor William? Come lunchtime, Kate's soldier boy will have to settle for the chow served on base. Note to those who are not from military families: Chow in some countries is better than chow in other countries, but in the end, chow is chow.

 

Tea and Scones, Welsh Style

Perhaps around 4 p.m. Kate will have a pot of tea with bara brith, the local fruit cake, or perhaps with a Welsh cake, first cousin to the scone, and a bit of jam made by the farmer down the road. Highly recommended, and as a visitor, you'll find these sweet treats are served at teatime in hotels and tearooms.

 

We imagine Prince William staying at the base after he's dismissed for the day so he can have a pint with the boys. Considering the lovely bride who awaits him, this is a real testament to the glories of Welsh ciders, beers and ales. Perhaps he'll order a Tomas Watkin's Crcw Gaeaf; you should, too. Can't say it? You don't have to say it; just point to it and drink it, and you'll be delighted. This is, as the website says, “a choice blend of fuggle and golding hops.” Fuggle -- there's something you don't drink every day.

 

The Right Plaice

Ah, dinnertime: The royal couple's chef will have his pick of great ingredients, including Welsh Black Beef (more grass-fed than the American variety), venison, salt marsh lamb, and Welsh Mountain Lamb. Speaking of lamb, mutton, which has a gamier taste, has made a comeback of late, especially in stews and casseroles. You'll notice those same ingredients listed on menus in the better restaurants. Expect to see words like “organic,” “seasonal,” and “local” – a lot.

 

What about seafood? You've come to the right country, and so have Kate and William: The cold Atlantic waters off the coast of Wales are rich with sea bass, rays, plaice (used in fish and chips), sole, brill, mullet, turbot and more, as well as scallops, crabs, lobsters and prawns. Not to mention cockles and mussels.

Great Welsh Restaurants

Welsh chefs have updated the way they prepare these fine local ingredients, too. In restaurants such as Woods Brasserie in Cardiff and Plas Bodegroes in Pwllheli [sic!], and hotels like the Conrah Country House Hotel in Aberystwyth (try saying the name of that town after a full meal with wine), the chefs are employing 21st-century culinary skills to bring out the best in traditional Welsh ingredients, sometimes creating new fusion dishes that are, frankly, fabulous. At the Woods Brasserie, for example, the local roast lamb with tapenade and provencal vegetables is both pronounceable and delectable. We're expecting Prince William to do the right thing – that is, to take Kate to dinner there.

 

Nightcap, boys and girls? How about some peaty Welsh whisky, or Wisgi Cimreig. This single malt is made by Penderyn in the town of that name, and it's sure to help you get a good night's sleep. It'll help Prince William and Princess Kate fall into a deep slumber, as well – temptations notwithstanding.

 

To check out the royal couple's over-the-top wedding cake, click here.

 

[Allie McCoy]

This morning I read in the newspaper that the wedding toast may feature British sparkling wine instead of Champagne. I did not know that the United Kingdom makes good sparkling wine.

[Northeast News]

To live in Wales and never eat the fresh local seafood would be torture. Thank you, Robert, for explaining how this royal caution really works. I had a feeling that Yahoo's story was an exaggeration.

[Maureen Blevins]

When I visited Wales in August I tried local specialties when I could.  I was delighted for the most part (won't discuss black pudding here).  It was all very fresh and delicious!  Had a visit to Penderyn too and got a taste of their excellent whiskey.

[Allan Lynch]

The Queen also travels with bottled water from her estates. Her schedule is too tight and too many people look forward to seeing her for her to be felled by travel's tummy.

 

I enjoyed the food piece above. But just so you don't get too caught up in the idea of a modest cottage or farmhouse. Don't think of that in terms of your/our lifestyle. Just as was once explained to Oprah that Diana's father's first name was not Earl, it was his title. William is a royal prince, he will be king, so these modifiers describing their housing are perhaps not quite what the tiny, romantic little rose-covered places we think of.

[Northeast News]

This morning I read (courtesy Yahoo) that "British Royals are apparently never served shellfish, because of a fear of food poisoning." So you and I can eat those great Welsh cockles and mussels, but Kate can't. Or so we're told. Do you really believe that Kate will suddenly never touch a shrimp or lobster for the rest of her life?  

[Ed Wetschler]

Kevin, The Armless Dragon closed? A shame, if not an outright tragedy. Thanks for letting us know.

[Kevin Davies]

Sadly, (and much to the contrary of their still-live website) The Armless Dragon closed down early last year. It's since been replaced by the perfectly lovely (although considerably less Welsh) Ba Rooba Mediterranean restaurant.

 

In it's place, might I suggest Cegin y Ddraig, it's opposite Cardiff Castle so very central and easy to locate for visitors to the city.

[John Kipper]

Am I the only one whose annoyed by all the attention being given to this so-called "royal" couple? Who gives a flying dingdong?? Grow up folks, we have bigger fish to fry! Or is it just me?? Do YOU care about thuis wedding?

[David Paul Appell]

I remember my mom occasionally serving us Welsh rarebit when I was growing up, and now this piece has been a real eye-opening education on the other pieces of the Cymru food puzzle. Thanks, Ed!

[Donna Esposito]

I wonder who's more fascinated by this wedding. We Canadians or the Yanks?  Also have any of you eaten these Welsh dishes like laverbread?