An hour south of Pamplona where Ernest Hemingway famously (and tens of thousands after him) ran with the bulls, Tudela, the second largest city in the region of Navarre after Pamplona, is a metropolis of many distinctions, not least among them a Jewish history of majestic proportions. It was home to some of the most renowned figures in Sephardic literature and…

         We first met Claudine a Thursday afternoon in October in a kosher butcher shop in Cannes. A kashruth sign in a store window in the old section of town had caught our attention. Although we knew there is a sizable Jewish population on the French Riviera, the Hebrew lettering somehow came as a surprise. It led…