Beaufort, South Carolina: "Once Upon A Time And Still"

Milton Maxey House “Secession House’-where it all began.

While traveling to the beautiful and historic city of Beaufort South Carolina I had the imagery of grand old houses situated among the Spanish moss draping the massive live oak tree-lined streets. Southern hospitality and charm came to mind and waterfront restaurants and historic district shops and art galleries. And of course the historic vestiges of the tragic and heroic American Civil War.

Fishing boats docked in the waterfront marina in the harbor, pleasure boats at the dock, sunrises ,sunsets, and perhaps a grand old lighthouse popping into mind's eye. And they are all there, all those images. just as I imagined but in real life.

There is though one story that I was unfamiliar with and that was the use of some of the eclectic architectural heritage of over a dozen of Beaufort’s private homes: as Union hospitals during the Civil War. How I could integrate that history along with the many attractions that Beaufort has to offer was something I pondered and happily was able to resolve - and you can, too.

Beaufort, unlike most southern cities, did not suffer the terrible abuse that was common in the bombardments and destruction of some areas because the Union navy had made the Beaufort and Port Royal Sound area a military priority early on in the conflict, as it was captured in 1861. Used as a base for the Union navy to establish blockades, ship supplies and troops, Beaufort also quickly became a city to transfer wounded and sick Federal troops to. The problem was there were no hospitals as we think of today. Therefore many of the homes in Beaufort, including some of leading southern sympathizers, were commandeered into hospitals. Fourteen of these homes still remain and they have been restored to their former grandeur over the last century. (Some by Union generals who bought them after the war having been drawn to the beauty of the Beaufort area.) They tell an interesting story in the fall and rise of a Southern city. (Above, St. Helen’s Episcopal Church also used as a hospital during the Civil War.)

Historic Beaufort’s streets are laid out so there are many possible ways to see different sites. I found one of the most straightforward is to start along the beautiful Henry C. Chambers Waterfront Park area on Bay Street and then head east across Cateret Street to East Bay Street. Street maps are available at several sites but easily the best way is to stop at the Beaufort Visitors Center at 713 Craven street and pick up the map for the area you desire, plus have any questions answered that you may have. (Above, the William Fripp House, “Tidewater” ca. 1830, at 302 Federal St.)

Right along the shore front of the Beaufort River at 601 Eat Bay Street is the Lewis Reeve Sams House (above). This classic double-tiered porch, columned, southern-facing house was Union Hospital #14. It is hard now to imagine the hustle and bustle that must have been a daily ongoing event as nurses, doctors and staff tended to the wounds and even more prevalent diseases that the soldiers on both sides suffered from.

Clara Barton founder of the Red Cross, and her staff of nurses worked at many of the hospital houses including the James Robert Verdier House “Marshlands” at 501 Pincknet Street (aka the James Robert Verdier House. “Marshlands,” above).

Turning left onto New Street, you can then set your own pace, if you are walking or riding, to wind through the streets that follow, Federal, East, King, Pinckney and Hancock, to mention a few. Not only will you be able to see a number of the ‘hospitals’ but you will experience wonderful different periods of architecture and history as each home seems to have it’s own story. And yes you can take the available horse drawn carriage tours or a walking tour with a paid guide. Ours was a wonderful young man with an incredible array of historical knowledge.

And for those who like the rich and famous or close to either will of course see the Edgar Fripp house “Tidalholm”the setting for parts of the movies The Big Chill” and "The Great Santini ” as well as the one time home of best selling author Pat Conroy (home below), who wrote “The Great Santini”.

One particularly unsual home: that of Robert Small (above), a slave who stole a merchant ship, The Planter. in Charleston Harbor and led his family to freedom. He was awarded five thousand dollars from the Federal government for his heroic act and eventually bought the home in Beaufort where he was once a slave! (Speaking of which, the First African Baptist Church, below, built in 1865 for freed slaves, is also on the trail).