A Greek Sailing Odyssey

[Bev Malzard]

Following in the ancient mariners footsteps of Greece is a joy sailing in a traditional clipper. Bev Malzard reports.

It was the first morning on board the Star Clipper – a wondrous beauty that was to take us in Homer’s steps across the sea from Greece to Turkey. The renowned re-creation of a classic clipper was exclusive enough to only carry 170 passengers and we had 70 crew to look after us!

We had embarked on our seven-day journey in the port of Piraeus, a 30 minute train trip from Athens. We were sailing from the less than beautiful Greek port and our destination was Istanbul.

As we pulled away from the dock, the port of Piraeus twinkled in the night. We watched the first raising of the voluminous sails – to the anthemic tune of Vangelis’ ‘Conquest of Paradise’. The music was played every night and, even though it is a bit kitsch, I was moved by the music and the fact that I was actually sailing through the Dodecanese where many a myth and man had sailed before.

The sea was choppy enough to deny the tenders landing on our first stop Mykonos. So, ‘ti ne kanami’ (what can we do), we head to Syros – a wonderful surprise and an island not tainted by the mega tourist buzz.

As the island drew closer we could see the elegant swathe of houses that had crept up the hillsides overlooking the harbour. The buildings were a mixture of creamy pastel hues, shining in the bright midday sun. On shore we found a taxi and asked him to take us to the ‘family beach’. Never on Sunday do the families stay at home. The beach was packed; we swam and then sat in a taverna with a Greek salad, a plate of chips (patatas) and a cold bottle of ‘Fix’ beer.

Back on board, we departed the harbour to the aroma of afternoon tea being spread out on the deck.

Coasting now to Kos, the home to Hippocrates, the father of modern medicine. Also in the middle of the island, a bit of a hike from the harbour is the ‘Castro’ – the castle of the Knights of St John.

At dinner we all tell of our day’s exploration and discoveries, the teenagers on board hang out on deck and out elderly companions enjoy the quiet of the library – all is right with the world on board the Star Flyer tonight.

Next stop Patmos, an island with a dry, harsh landscape with white washed houses spotting the hills. ‘The Jerusalem of the Aegean’, Patmos was home to the apostle Saint John and it’s where he wrote the Book of Revelation. And with the plethora of fine cafes and bars – where else would you want to write a masterpiece?

The Star Flyer is an elegant ship that caters to everyone. But there is no casino, glitz or nightclub entertainment on board. But the entertainment is fun – we had a very daggy ‘frog race’, where participants pulled a string along with wooden front that flipped over. Another night, a small group of singers and folkloric dancers came on board to entertain us with traditional folk songs, music and dancing – and we joined in. Homespun entertainment has a particular, all -inclusive charm.

We continue north to Chios with its Byzantine flavour and arabesque ambience; then to Dikkili (Turkey) to take our excursion to the ancient city of Pergamon the once mighty city on top of a mountain.

Cannakale was the next and last stop before Istanbul – only a day before disembarkation. We had sailed through the Aegean, through the Dodecanese, the Dardanelles; been brushed by warm summer winds and we flew from port to port on the wings of waves. As one of my sailing companions said as we hung over the railing as we clipped the waves on a moonlit night: “This is amazing, I feel as if I’m really sailing”.

image: Wileypics