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The fare’s nouvelle-ish American — chef Nik Biok’s chic & tasty takes on comfort food like smoked stuffed chicken wings with chipotle tamarind, lime relish, and sour cream, or slow-roasted beef short ribs with guava glaze. But while foodies give the menu a definite thumbs-up, food is still probably not the main reason for a trip to Circus, a sleek spot that opened in early 2010, tucked away on London‘s Endell Street in Covent Garden. Its gimmicky (in a good way), somewhat voyeuristic vibe is a magnet for thrill-seekers, Louboutin-wearing media types and assorted hipsters who fit right into the stark sky-lit concrete dining room with its dozens of mirror balls over the bar, rows of synchronized lights in the lounge area, and even a stripper pole, should you have a glass too many of Champers and feel like removing a layer or three (the mastermind behind the décor, not surprisingly, is legendary British designer Tom Dixon). At regular intervals, your meal is punctuated by gravity-defying spectacles – say, an aerialist working a silver hoop suspended over the tables like something out of Cirque du Soleil (more than a few of the performers have in fact been pinched from Quebec’s greatest gift to show biz outside of Celine Dion). Mix in a bit of burlesque and a dollop of drag, and the scene at Circus adds up to quite possibly the greatest show in town. It’s open daily for lunch and dinner, with main dishes in the £13-20 range.
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