Bornholm Island, A Danish Pearl in the Baltic

[Velimira Velikova]

Rugged cliffs plunge into the sea, to the north; a lush forest occupies the central areas and miles of white sandy beaches stretch to the south. That is the small Danish island – palette (588 sq.km), Bornholm, in a few words. The island might be small in area, but whether you choose to go there for a weekend or a long holiday, the tiny sunny islet offers a whole new aspect of Denmark.

A range of activities available for the outdoor lovers – climbing, horseback riding, sport fishing or golf. Art lovers won’t be disappointed either – the island is home to many artists and craftsmen and during the summer their studios and workshops are open to the tourists.

Earlier paintings can be seen at the Bornholm Art Museum at Helligdomsklipperne between Tejn and Gudhjem. It includes works by Michael Ancher, who is often associated with Skagen, but was actually born onBornholm and spent most of his time here. Danish painter Oluf Høst (1884-1966), who from 1929 lived on Bornholm, portrayed the island’s landscape and people in a very evocative way – he has got his own museum in Gudhjem.

There is so much to marvel at on Bornholm: Dueodde – the island’s longest beach, Svaneke – Denmark’s smallest market town (with the Council of Europe award for the preservation of its historic character), Paradisbakkerne – a hilly, rocky place about 2 kilometers northwest of Nexo, and not least the picturesque town Gudhjem and its subtropical climate, where both figs and mulberries thrive.

Many visitors to Bornholm choose to see the island by bicycle. There are approximately 200 km of cycle paths linking the major towns and attractions. Distances are short, and it’s easy to get around on the bike.

The advantage of bike tours is that you in good conscience can indulge in snacking, for there would be many calories burnt and many goodies to enjoy: Giant ice cream cones with jam, Danish blue cheese from the dairy in Klemensker, crispy crackers with cumin from the family bakery Johannes Dam & Son in Aakirkeby, smoked herring with rye bread and egg yolk.

Fishing is still, along with agriculture and tourism, one of the island’s main industries. But it has changed with time. A lot. Today, the island imports fish from other Danish ports to meet demand during peak periods.

It is said that in the Middle Ages, the Baltic Sea had been so rich with herring, that the boats found it difficult to get around. The first smokehouse was built in Gudhjem in 1886 and in early 1900, chimneys started to smoke in almost every village.

Today there are only about fifteen houses left, including the one in Hasle, which also has a smokehouse museum. They are open from April to September-October.

The Round Churches, a popular attraction on the island today, were originally intended as military installations. They were built in 1100 – 1200 and originally had a flat roof to facilitate defense. The cone-shaped wooden roofs were added later. Today there are four round churches left in the island: Ols Church, New Church, Nylars Church and the Baltic Lars Church which is the largest and the oldest.