Iceland: Life on the Brink


Icelanders live on the edge.

In 1783 the Laki Volcano  in this glacier-covered country erupted in a violent and prolonged paroxysm, killing a fifth of the country's population.

For 10 months 30 billion tons of lava and sulfuric acid belched forth, creating a noxious haze that killed crops and livestock in Europe as it wound its deadly way west.

Some experts say it was this eruption that led to crop failures in distant France, setting the stage for the French Revolution.

There are still active volcanoes in Iceland, as we know all too well from the spring of 2010, when Eyjafjallajökull erupted, snarling air traffic for weeks.

In the endless, but brief summer days when the sun never sets, golfers tee off at two in the morning, and at midnight cafes are filled with what could pass for boisterous lunchtime crowds.

But the seemingly endless winter are not, surprisingly, any colder or brutal than say those of New England or Montreal.

In fact, temperatures hover around the low forties, not so bad, but the drizzle and the low cloud cover is pretty constant.

The New York Times has an interesting article on the best times to go.

From late October to November, the Northern Lights are a major travel attraction , but they don’t come with guarantees, so ask any travel company that promotes the phenomenon what their refund or alternative plans are.

But at any time, the country is a nature-lovers paradise.

It’s misty and moody, with fast-moving clouds, wheeling gulls, and a silence that could be unsettling.

In the classic Western sense of beauty, Icelanders are striking.

Almost uniformly taller than the average European, they are almost always blonde with very blue eyes and finely sculptured features, befitting their Viking heritage.

Honest to a fault, reserved and taciturn, Icelanders still use the patronymic name system. The surname is the father's name with son or dóttir (daughter) added to it.

 Thus the former Icelandic president (the first woman elected president in a Democratic society) is Vigdis Finnbogadóttir, or Vigdis, daughter of Finnbogi.

Her brother would be Finnbogasson. It can be very confusing, so the phone book lists Icelanders by their occupation as well as their first names.

Reykjavík, the capital,  itself is a Lilliputian city. Everything is small scale with a distinct, charming, village feel.

But don't let that fool you. It's a reasonably sophisticated, fun-loving city in an very expensive country.

A Reykjavík stay has to include the  "Golden Circle," a quick look at Iceland's best-known features.

It can be done in a few days, if you return to your hotel in Reykjavík each night and set out again the next morning.

Tour buses  leave from various hotels, but better still, rent a car. That way you can stay as long as you like at any spot and stop at the many authentic fishing villages that dot the coast.

The driving is very civilized, roads beautifully marked and traffic nonexistent.

Your first stop, some 50 miles from Reykjavík, is Gullfoss (foss means "falls," thus "Golden Falls"). You'll hear the deafening roar of the double falls well before you arrive.

The river Hvita (White River) roars 105 feet into a half-mile ravine. Like so much of the nature in Iceland, you get as close as you want.

There are never any billboards to mar your views of nature at its most beautiful, nor are there people hawking coffee, souvenirs and other annoyances. Just you and the spectacle of nature with nothing in between.

Following along the old Viking trail, you can bypass Geysir (an original Icelandic name) if you've seen others. The main geyser started erupting around 1294, then petered out.

However, the area is ringed with lesser geysers that erupt frequently and spew forth very hot water. It's quite interesting, and the eruptions never fail to cause lots of "oohs and ahs," by those patiently waiting for the next plume of water to burst forth.

Continue to Thingvellir National Park (Thing-vet-tler), or Parliament Plains.

Allegedly it was here, on this vast, craggy, wind-swept plain, where cliffs and rivers surround a deep depression, that the Western world's first parliament was formed, or so Icelanders claim.

The feuding, warlike tribes decided in 930 to band together and try to settle their differences peacefully. It was more carnival than law, with the speaker standing on a stone (logberg) drawing from his store of sagas, traditions, customs and precedent to keep the fractious tribes in line.

The last stop on the Golden Circle is the Blue Lagoon. About 10 miles from the airport on the Reykjanes peninsula, this man-made lagoon may be the strangest thing you've seen, and it will be one of the oddest photographs you'll ever take.

Surrounded by an extensive lava flow, this silica-rich lake is a by-product of a geothermal energy processing plant nearby. It's some mysterious-looking lake, with mist hovering just above the 104-degree blue water.

The only creatures in this blue lagoon are the incredulous visitors swimming in its waters.

Iceland’s glaciers and endless white mountain will doubtlessly inspire awe and respect for a people who not only survive against such odds, but, the present dismal economic situation not withstanding, are generally happy doing so.






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Comment by Kaleel Sakakeeny on November 10, 2011 at 10:37am

One trip I recommend is the over-the-glacier-world, 40 minute flight to what is often called Iceland's northern capital, Akureyri

Not much doing there, one main street, somewhat dull, but perfect for whale watching!

Thanks for the comment, David

Comment by David Paul Appell on November 10, 2011 at 9:44am

One of the most "different"-feeling countries in the developed world, for sure.  I've been maybe 3 times and next time am looking forward to getting out more to the hinterland, the north coast, the islands, etc. I haven't tried the famous fermented shark's head but have had puffin and whale. 

Comment by Kaleel Sakakeeny on November 9, 2011 at 7:06pm

Thanks for the tips, TR. I checked my notes and jogged my memory, and that fermented shark meat is called, Hakarl in Icelandic.

NOT a delicacy!

cheers

Comment by Travel Rob on November 9, 2011 at 5:57pm

I agree with you about the shark meat.The famous hot dog stand in Reykjavik  is a must and doesn't disappoint.It's called "The best" or something like that in Icelandic.

My favorite Apartment by far in Reykjavik is Castle and Embassy Apartments.Their Embassy Apartments are located on a quiet street near the Embassies, a few blocks from downtown.When I stayed in June 2010,It was $100 a night for a one bedroom,but they upgraded us for free to the 2 bedroom.Absolutely a wonderful apartment.I think though because it's so nice and the reviews online are so good,it might be higher now for the summer.

I've also stayed at the budget hotel Arctic Vik.It's good if you rented a car because it's not so close to downtown.They have a  decent free breakfast too.That was $75 a night for a triple room in summer,Other times

of year the prices are  a lot lower.

Comment by Kaleel Sakakeeny on November 8, 2011 at 11:32am
I do agree with you. I see it generally as a 3 day visit unless one flies north . If you have inexpensive places to eat and stay, do tell. Avoid the decayed shark meat they serve with their great vodka. :)
Comment by Travel Rob on November 8, 2011 at 11:26am

Iceland really is a great country to visit.Some apartments in Reykjavik are extremely nice and inexpensive to rent daily.It's really hard to beat going in Summer though with the 24 hours of daylight.

 Iceland Express and Iceland Air offer cheap fares to Europe. So being that they offer a free stopover in Iceland,it's a great way to break up your trip.

 

 

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